it’s always darkest before the dawn

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dusk; maasai mara

I had a lovely taxi driver last week who, after hearing about my ‘run in’ with the car, asked me about the best and worst parts of volunteering in his country. the best? seeing the smiles on children’s faces when you give them something as small as a lollipop or even rice for lunch. the worst? not the fact that I was hit by a car, but saying goodbye to all the incredible volunteers I’ve been fortunate enough to meet over the past three months in kenya.

saying goodbye is never easy, and even from my time in europe in june, I’ve had to say goodbye to more people than I’ve probably ever had to say goodbye to. maybe since I finished high school. I guess I should probably clarify that I don’t mean ‘on the death bed’ goodbye; I mean meeting people who you get on so well with and then are likely to not see again, or at least not for a long time. it’s kinda the bittersweet part of travelling, I’ve learnt that on my previous trips overseas. but I would argue that volunteering and meeting other like-minded people makes it even harder. because we’re all (well, mostly all) here to make a small difference, to brighten someone’s day, to make someone smile. at least, I am. and I’ve met countless others who are too.

if I listed all the people I’ve hugged, waved off or helped with their bags as they climb into the taxi, I’d be here all day… and I don’t think I’m exaggerating when I say it would be in the hundreds. I’ve cried only once (bloody susie) , but have been teary on many more occasions. meeting people from all around the world, like I have for the past 4 months, means having so many more contacts for future travel experiences. it started at the end of my tour in turkey – when the rest of the group continued on to cappadocia while I went back to istanbul – and the latest is just this morning, when I waved off michael and alyce, two of the greatest aussies I’ve met, no topic is too gross or too over share-y with those two. and I’m so glad I’ll see them again in a couple of weeks when they briefly come back from uganda.

but I’m richer for having met everyone I’ve met. you learn something new, you learn to appreciate things more – like people you actually get along with. I certainly haven’t clicked with everyone, sometimes you meet people and wonder what the bloody hell they’re doing in a country like kenya – “oh my god, the toilet, it like, so doesn’t flush properly”, “the floor is so dirty, seriously, what’s with that?”, “we have to supply our own toilet paper? what the hell?!”, “oh my god, the electricity is off again? how do I charge my phone now?”… I’m not kidding, people have said these things. a) you’re lucky there even is a flushing toilet, b) you’re lucky it’s not a dirt floor and c) you’re lucky to even have electricity in the first place! fark me, some people.

I still hate goodbyes. I’m dreading saying goodbye to the kids at ‘little ray of hope’ and I’m dreading saying goodbye to my host sisters (who now snuggle with me on the couch of an evening). only one month left in kenya before tanzania – time flies when you’re working hard and having fun.

welcome to kenya, we’ve got lions

africa; the arrival.

I don’t even know where to start! so much has happened already and it feels like I’ve been here 6 weeks, not just 6 days. during the lead up to me leaving germany and coming to kenya, I was a nervous wreck. even though it was mostly ‘excited nerves’, there was definitely a small percentage of me that was shit scared. I’m pretty sure it was because I spent a bit of time with someone who reminded me of home, which then reminded me of how long I’ll be gone for, which made me question myself more than a million times about what the bloody hell I was doing. but regardless, I got on the plane to doha and then I got on my plane to nairobi. and here I am!

when my plane landed at nairobi jomo kenyatta airport, I couldn’t wipe the smile off my face. I had finally made it, so much planning and money spent, and I was finally in the land where david attenborough makes documentaries about lions and about the harsh deserts, the land where the lion king was based on, the land where poverty is so prevalent, the land that no one seems to travel to. and here I am.

considering my flight arrived at 7:30am and I hadn’t slept on either of the flights, I was basically a walking zombie. I also didn’t pay attention to the instructions about how to get the kenyan visa.. it costs $50us, but no one specified cash (or if they did, I missed that part) so I had my card all ready to go when the woman tells me she only accepts cash. so I go off in search of an atm back near the gate I came from, get out 10,000 kenyan shillings (approx. $130au) and go back to pay her the equivalent. but of course, she doesn’t have change, so I fork out 5000ksh for my three month visa, and I’ll have to reapply for another one for the next 3 months. classic case of not reading the fine print.

someone from the volunteer organisation (I booked through IVHQ but networks for volunteer services (NVS) is who I work for once in kenya) came to pick me up. I met three other volunteers in the van, one from sydney and two from america, and we were taken to the place where we’d spend the night before orientation the following day, in the same building. gradually as the day unfolded, more volunteers showed up, with the majority being americans & canadians. I was pretty surprised but once I realised this was their summer break, it made sense. in the group of volunteers on that first day, there were americans, canadians, one japanese guy, one from new zealand, one other aussie and me.

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mikki (usa), tegan (aus ) and me with my awkward grimace smile

I was rather overwhelmed by the sheer number of american accents in one room, if there’s ever been an accent which annoys me more (usually only when I’m travelling) it’s that one! but after spending a week with my “new family” of canadian & american volunteers, I hardly notice it now.. except when we talk about ‘tomaytoes’

orientation was my first experience of ‘africa time’. if you’ve never heard of it, basically africans (in my experience, kenyans) don’t wear watches so you might be told orientation starts at 9am however it’s nearly 10am and it still hasn’t properly started. I’m positive this won’t be the only time I mention african time, I’m slowly starting to wrap my head around it, but it still gives me the shits!

I found out at orientation that contrary to what I thought I’d booked, I wasn’t going to maasai land for my first 2 months, but I was going to a family planning centre in thika, (in good traffic its about 45mins north west of nairobi, in bad traffic it might take 90mins). definitely have to be open to change when you’re a volunteer, considering they send you where they think you’re needed most. I also found out I am one of only two medical volunteers, and I’m the only qualified one – the other is a 2nd year med student from the uk. of the 99 volunteers who started on july 1, I’d say the majority are doing the orphanage program or teaching program.

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the 99 volunteers, the biggest intake ever

later on in orientation, I was approached by a guy called marcus gregar-rive who, four years ago, came to kenya to volunteer and then set up a program for kids in a slum (called kitendo children’s charity (kcc) slum project) to be able to go to school. he asked me if I would like to be a part of a huge medical camp that kcc slum are running on august 17 in conjunction with kijabe hospital, to which I replied a probably far too ecstatic ‘yes, I’d love to’! after hearing about how another volunteer has managed to set up her own medical camps, I’m feeling pretty inspired on how to use the money that was so generously donated to me before I left. but that’s a long way down the track, with a lot of planning! past medical camps have run for either 1-2 days and service anywhere up to 1500 people with health services they otherwise can’t afford or get to.

so after orienting, you’re supposed to head to your host family before starting work the next day. however my group were still waiting on two more volunteers to arrive, so instead we stayed in nairobi on monday night at pastor regina’s house. it was jam packed full of volunteers, including an incredible mum, molly, from america with her 12 and 13 year old daughters. if that’s not a family holiday that actually means something, I don’t know what is. anyway, as we’re pulling our van into the gated area, about 20 kids are playing with ropes for skipping and rocks.

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you often find small clusters of houses who share one common gate then have separate gates to their houses… makes you feel very secure. I’m climbing out of the car and the kids see my ukulele, start making strumming noises and ask me to play. quickly drop my bags inside and go back out with my newly tuned uke, and it was so much fun. initially I was playing and singing a few songs, namely somewhere over the rainbow, and then gradually as it got more exciting, they started taking over the playing and the singing (and the tuning!). it was absolute proof that something as simple as a musical instrument can bring such joy into people’s lives; the latest electronic play things are so unnecessary. it was pretty special to be part of the reason why the kids were smiling so much.

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beautiful, happy, dancing kids loving my ukulele

this huge post is literally my first 2 days in kenya, and it’s not even scratching the surface!

when you’ve got nothing, you’ve got nothing to lose

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the time has come! to say I’m nervous would be the biggest understatement made in this century. I’m so nervous about everything that may or may not happen in the next 6 months.. but it’s an excited nervous – talk about fear of the unknown. I’m unbelievably excited about finally being on my way, 12 months down the track from first starting to plan this trip, and I’m actually doing it. there are far too many emotions that I’m thinking and feeling now, especially after a fantastic final few days in europe. on one hand, I am so ready for the huge challenge, but on the other, I can’t wrap my head around the fact that I’m actually doing it.

better believe it sunshine, you’re on the plane!

kenya believe I’m going to kenya?!

life’s too short for burning bridges

a little while ago, maybe a few months ago, some pop up popped up on my computer screen called ‘a note from the universe’ which sounded cool so I signed up to get daily emails. it’s basically cute little phrases to re-affirm your faith in society, yourself and the world.

this week I got one that was perfect;

it’s not the dazzling voice that makes a singer. or clever stories that make a writer. and it’s not piles of money that make a tycoon.
it’s having a dream and wanting to live it so greatly that one would rather move with it and “fail” than succeed in another realm

so here’s to living my dream, to making mistakes along the way, to making new friends, to putting myself a year (or more) behind in my career, to being constantly being out of my comfort zone. because life’s too short.

‘if you don’t like where you are, move. you’re not a tree.’

fuck yeah.

and I don’t want the world to see me

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as each day passes, I can’t help but feel how lucky I am to be travelling. whenever I had a shitty day at work before I left (which was often, I won’t lie), I’d always remind myself that soon enough I would be overseas and none of that shit would matter. now here I am and life is phucking great. it has just ticked over two weeks since I left and its already gone so quickly.

I can only imagine how I’ll feel when it’s the end of my trip.. seven and a bit months of travel.

what a life.

cashing in my bad luck

lesson I learnt in avyalik

no matter where you are in the world, always quadruple check your hostel room before leaving. try not to leave important things in it – like your ipad with all your photos on it so far – otherwise you’ll hold up the bus of not just your tour group but locals as well for 20 minutes waiting for it to arrive via taxi and then when it doesn’t & the locals are getting shitty and get out of the bus and yell at you, your tour guide stays behind to wait for it, then has to get a taxi to meet up with the bus.

I obviously paid for the taxi trip for my tour guide, and it was the best bloody 50 turkish lira I’ve spent thus far.

my new mantra: re-check your room, re-check your room.

for we are young and free

gallipoli

I feel like anything I write about gallipoli will do no justice to it, or maybe it will take away from the sanctity of it. a truly humbling and very patriotic experience. if possible, every australian should go at one point in their lives; nothing makes you truly understand the impact of landing at the wrong beach until you see it for your own eyes.

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I chose to come to turkey because of gallipoli, anything else was an added bonus. it couldn’t have been more incredible. to say I got emotional would be an understatement, I was definitely teary more than once or twice… particularly when visiting the cemeteries and seeing the most common ages of soldiers being my age, 22.

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anzac cove, then and now

another thing that got to me was the speech given by the previous president of turkey, atatürk (the one who formed the republic of turkey) on one anzac day. it had been made into a huge plaque that overlooked anzac cove; it was beautiful.

“those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives,
you are now lying in the soil of a friendly country,
therefore rest in peace.
there is no difference between the johnnies and the mehmets
to us where they lie side by side here
in this country of ours.
you the mothers,
who sent their sons from far away countries,
wipe away your tears.
your sons are now lying in our bosom
and are in peace.
after having lost their lives on this land,
they have become our sons as well.”

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one of the cemeteries

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the view from the above cemetery.. facing the sea

seeing poppies growing in the gardens around the anzac peninsula was another wonderful sight. after picking one and laying it on the memorial stone, I then read a sign that said not to; oh well. I was just paying my respects- too bad if the way I did it was frowned upon.

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australian trenches still intact

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lone pine

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the memorial at lone pine

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the best of friends

one of my greatest travelling experiences and I’ve never felt prouder to call myself an australian.