everybody’s been here at least once before

so, the most amazing thing happened when I sat down on my emirates flight from dubai to copenhagen.

I had chosen an isle seat down the back of the plane for this part of my trip. I can’t decide if sitting by the window and being undisturbed is more enticing than being up to get up easily and walk around without climbing over two other passengers who are probably angry and or half asleep. as it turns out, I was sitting next to a mother and her young son was seated next to the window. I said hi and told them if they need to get up, just wake me if I fall asleep. she emailed and responded with ‘tak’ – danish for thanks. I had my ipad it, ready to read some books, and my ear plugs, to drown out the inevitable engine noise that always interrupts a decent rest. 

just as I mad myself comfortable, and as other passengers were still boarding, a very danish looking man (tanned, blonde hair, very blue eyes) made a beeline straight for me, and when he reached me, asked if my name was miss johnson. um yes, I replied but my voice was so hoarse I had to clear my throat and repeat myself. damn being sick. he then says, “I don’t mean to interrupt you, howeve you are sitting by my family for this flight and I wonder if you would consider changing seats with me?” I told him of course I don’t mind, it was unfair he was separated from his family so I would definitely swap. then, he drops the bombshell and tells me it would be very worth my while as his seat is in business class. I think I squeaked as my jaw hit the floor. I may have said, are you serious, a few times, and then I asked if that was even allowed. he told me he’d already cleared it with the head of the cabin crew – that’s how he knew my name, he’d asked the name of the passenger sitting next to his family. insane, this shit never happens. he carried my bag for me up to the front of the plane, introduced me to the staff (I reckon he was either a seriously frequent flyer or maybe some sort of famous viking) and then showed me to my seat. I felt like a member of the bloody royal family being escorted through the aircraft until I landed in my ‘throne’ right at the front of the plane. never in my life have I been more pleased to at least have been dressed as though I semi-belonged to sit in that class. I had changed into jeans before I left kenya, thankfully I decided not to wear my crutch-as-low-as-the-floor african pants and a grotty tshirt that I only washed once. 

then came the giggles. I was giggling to myself like a little school girl; when they handed me a menu and a wine list, when they brought around drinks as I sat down, when I put the noise cancellation headphones on, when I made my seat recline into a bed and avoided getting a DVT, when I went to the toilet and dried my hands on an actual towel – not a paper towel, when it was time to eat and they set up my table with a tablecloth… basically the whole 8 and a bit hours I was chuckling and smiling to myself like a freak. 

so, as it turns out, I flew to copenhagen in business class, seat 1F on a boeing 777-300. like a fucking queen. I drank veuve cliquot champagne and red wine from bordeaux and ate food so tasty, you’d never imagine it came from a plane kitchenette.

what an incredible start to a very luxurious two weeks I have ahead. I think I’m permanently ruined for economy now.

here I go again on my own



I’m home!

you know that feeling when you’ve been to a place and it had a huge impact on you yet you haven’t been back there for a pretty long time so you’re a bit worried if it will be as wonderful as you remember it once was?

I felt so unbelievably anxious on saturday when I was about to leave to come back here to kenya, and I can only put it down to the fact that I had absolutely no idea if kenya would be as great as I remembered. although there were days (or maybe I should say weeks) where I hated lots of things about this place; I hated the fact I was “white”. I hated being the one targeted to be pickpocketed. I hated the looks and the jeers I got from people walking by. I hated the poverty. I hated the sickness. I hated seeing the harsh reality of how so many lived. 

but there was so much to love. I guess I was worried I would come back to kenya after being thrown back into my “first world way of life” for a year and feel utterly out of my touch with being the girl I was when I lived here.

well, incase you’re wondering, I have slotted right back in to my old self – getting stared at and being called mzungu and kids running to touch my hands, being covered in dust and eating mandazi and drinking chai, hearing the constant sound of horns and shouting, music blasting, vendors selling peanuts and bananas by the roadside, stepping over god knows what in that plastic bag, matatus (public buses) not caring who is in their path, preachers shouting their prayers of a morning. safe to say, all my anxieties are gone. this is how I remember it, this is my other home – in it’s most unforgiving and unrelentless form.

so I arrived sunday morning after a solid 26 hours of travel to an announcement on the plane just before landing. “passengers, you will undergo medical assessment when arriving in jomo kenyatta international airport.” that was in. I assumed this had something to do with ebola, and in my naive assumptions, thought I’d be scrutinised to a sit down medical and interrogations of where we’ve travelled in the last however many days. I was quite wrong. the airport, which has been semi-rebuilt as a fire burned it down when I was here in 2013, is really something. reminiscent of a tin shed (okay that’s a bit harsh but in comparison to heathrow, it’s quite true),  the ‘door’ we walk through has been painted bright blue with some cartoon masaai men and giraffes under acacia trees. the inside is a concrete slab where we shuffle into two lines, to walk through one by one under a thermal imaging camera to decide whether we might display any chance of being febrile or infective. but it wasn’t ebola they were screening for, apparently if you were from china or the middle east, they were going to talk quite an interest in you. have no fear, my thermal image showed I was somewhere between 36.5 – 36.8 degrees celcius. 

it appears that kenya has also implemented “customs” since I last arrived, I definitely don’t remember having to declare myself bringing certain goods into the country. I did declare I was bringing tea bags (yes I know I’m a hopeless wannabe brit who cannot curb her addiction) which anna later laughed and asked why I would do such a thing and my response was I’m australian, we have to declare everything! I’m kind of glad they just pushed me through with the other travellers who were declaring chocolates that they’d purchased in dubai as anna also informed me that when she came back to kenya over christmas, customs had gone through her bag and seen the books and things she’d purchased for the kids at little ray of hope. I’m lucky they didn’t see all the books, pencils, crayons, posters etc that chrissie and jayne had generously given to me to bring over for the kids. 

after handing over my US$50 for my visa, I was free to go out and meet anna who had been patiently waiting to pick me up! we were so caught up in a hug that my trolley with all my bags (and no brakes, because – duh – this is africa) had made its way through a crowd of people, down a ramp and heading towards the road. 

so I’m staying back at my old host family’s house, in the middle of the kawangware slum west of nairobi, and it’s like nothing has changed at all, even though everything is different. even though I’m in my old room and in my old bed; volunteers don’t stay here anymore, my host sisters are at boarding school, the shower doesn’t give electric shocks anymore. it’s quiet and strange. 

but it’s so good to be back. x

(next post about my first day back at little ray of hope!)

and bad mistakes, I’ve made a few

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people usually learn from their mistakes. whenever I get sick, it takes me a good couple of weeks to actually go to a doctor because I hate antibiotics and I like to think I’m either supernatural or made of a supreme higher power and that eating oranges or drinking lemon & honey will cure me. even after everything I’ve learnt at uni. you’d think I’d learn by now.

we were joking around the other day after the medical camp in nakuru, and having treated patients with potential tuberculosis, I was certain I now had TB. loss of appetite, persistent cough, TB exposure, fever, weight loss, night sweats… yep I had all those. but that’s the worst part of knowing too much medically. but I don’t have TB. surely not. power of positive thinking. .

but anyway, today I finally caved, spent an entire 250 kenyan shillings (AU$3.10) to see the clinician at the clinic I work at, for him to tell me I have tonsilitis as well as an upper respiratory tract infection. no wonder I feel like shit, don’t want to eat & can’t eat because of the huge golf balls that were once my glands.

so after being given a course of amoxicillin, a course of cefatrizine & a whole bunch of ibuprofen (all included in my $3.10 fee already paid)… here’s hoping I’m back to 100% within the week – big medical camp to look forward to in naivasha this weekend!

I guess I probably should get a mantoux (TB) test before I come home. I definitely have been exposed to it here, not even joking.

I’ve been here before a few times

racking up a pretty decent list of types of worldwide stomach issues I’ve had so far in my 22 years:

fiji belly ’04
can’t remember the exact details but remember being sick at one point

singapore belly ’07
probably from eating street food

bali belly ’10
the worst ever, legitimately thought I was going to die

tasmania belly ’11/’12
probably too much alcohol at falls festival

turkey belly ’13
probably opened my mouth in the shower accidentally

kenya belly ’13
just to add another one to the list – couldn’t even go to placement today because I didn’t think I could last without being close to a toilet

stomach, you have travelled to a lot of countries, including more than what’s mentioned above…. get your shit together.

jump on my cloud, we can float to the sky

paris – the sights

here is probably the part where I should warn you, whoever you are, that I am a swearer. I swear a lot. this blog wouldn’t be authentic if I didn’t write it like I talk, so I apologise in advance. probably don’t read it to your kids, nieces or nephews as a bedtime story, just in case.

I arrived in paris at the ungodly hour of 0730am sunday morning. jet lagged, exhausted and emotional that I finally made it; I pulled myself together, had a shower to wash off the 24 hours of travel and got out to enjoy the bloody beautiful weather that paris put on for me. so I started walking. I don’t think there is a better way to explore a city than by aimlessly wandering around, taking in the sites and trying to get your bearings.

my apartment was in le marais area of paris, in my opinion has got to be one of the best parts. central, surrounded by restaurants and cafes, easy to get the metro from… a total win. infact from my window in my apartment I could see notre dame. if that doesn’t scream ‘you’re in paris’, nothing will (unless you stay at one of those decadent hotels that overlooks place de la concorde or the eiffel tower, I guess that would also scream paris).

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view from my apartment

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a massive paris highlight was getting to see passenger at le trabendo. there’s something seriously liberating about going to a gig on your own, particularly when you’re probably the only native english speaker in the place because you’re the only one singing every word to every song, not just the chorus of ‘let her go’. and the fact it was just mike and his guitar made it even more special, it was a celebration of his music, him sharing what he does best. it was phucking brilliant (yes I know how lame it is to spell fuck like that, but I don’t know who is gonna read this & my grandparents, should they ever get around to technology, don’t need to know how much I swear, or that I know how spell. and sometimes I feel it’s more confronting to see the word fuck written than when it’s actually said in person, I obviously use it as an adjective – it helps me describe things… I make no apologies).

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like I wrote before, I walked the shit out of paris. walking from le marais up rue de rivoli to champ des mars/eiffel tower is a bloody long way but I always feel like you can better appreciate the city you’re in if you walk it’s streets. in my first few days of walking, my feet hardly hurt and I thoroughly enjoyed the sunshine. so then thursday morning when I got up, I thought “hey if I’m doing all this asking, perhaps I should wear my birkenstocks that I bought especially for my long days of walking”. fan-phucking-tastic idea victoria.

I read a quote on a coffee mug in one of those god awful tourist shops that said “a bad day in paris is still better than a good day anywhere else”. I really like the sentiment, except for the day I thought I’d dress like a hippy and wear my new birkenstocks because “they’re great walking shoes”… I would have rathered a shit day on nursing placement with an awful supervisor who quizzes you on every drug before you give it, than this day. 2 massive phuck-off blisters as well as a couple of baby onesis not how I imagined I would spend my last two days, hobbling around paris like one of many gypsies I saw on the way (doesn’t help that I also dress like them)

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whenever I go away, I always have an amazing time – except for the time I got bali belly that lasted nearly 2 weeks from start to finish – but I sometimes forget the little things that I did or saw. but something I never forget.. food.

over the sea and far away

paris

I planned to do one blog post per city, but how is one supposed to condense one week in an incredible city into one blog post? impossible. so I’m separating them; the sights and the food. but when I say “the food”, I’m really only talking about my incredible experience at le chateaubriand – no. 18 in the worlds best restaurants. and maybe a few other memorable experiences, like le garde robe.

paris was beautiful, even more beautiful than when I was there in january. I’d have to say its probably because it was warm, sunny and happy. everyone’s happier when it’s warm (must be why aussies are such top blokes). I did so much exploring and I guess that’s the beauty of travelling alone… doing what you want, when you want, how you want.

I also walked the shit out of paris. I conquered it by foot. and thats probably putting it likely. but when my feet started falling apart, I conquered le metro as well.

on the plane from melbourne to paris, via kuala lumpur, I wrote a to do list. something I don’t usually do when I go overseas but when I was there in january, it was so rushed and quick, I felt like I didn’t see even a smidge of what I hoped to. this time, however would be different.

the list:
– la tour eiffel, again
– montmartre & pigalle
– versailles
– jardin des tuileries
– sacre coeur
– notre dame
– cafe de flore
– kb cafe
– coutume cafe
– le chateaubriand
– le garde robe
– passenger gig @ le trabendo

relatively simple. not extensive, particularly for 6 full days. and considering out of 12 things, 5 were food related, I could definitely get this shit done.